Routing the stepped channels around the perimeter of the body originally seemed like a pretty intimidating task. Essentially, any slip of the router or major mistake here, and it would likely be fairly noticeable in the end. Using a Dremel and sharp rabbet bit, here's what the initial pass looked like up close:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhr_CisXZTfTAV7o6c1zvbJ81zkRsSAXDQjhAuwEnLTzwfGoc77g_WN-1HFeXDfZJ6aZBWHBGK3PnA5au61gVZru2xQ80rPc4ZmY_m1jH2-FrADzjggu7n9ZjjBmkf4_hDr_7utakYiM/s320/153.JPG)
The next photo shows the "stepped" ledge needed to receive both the outer maple binding, and the inner black/white/black purfling strip:
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjynTksAREzw93f8lgkwIBIR5cR-j3N4xOafEBTTuFJyoFr9pT7T20A8IDHhA9fRVsgrVHRrK65tXcB7Nqqe2C91-mzQd-u5LYrOvlKcN37HJCzxYWeWHhdBE_ob4rjrThZPwJWg1_2XtQ/s320/156.JPG)
Because of a combination of the arched surface of the back, my less-than-amazing router base, and my equally less-than-amazing router skills, the depths of my cuts varied along the permiter of the guitar, and in some cases, the stepping effect disappeared completely. To remedy this situation, I ordered a hand held Purfling Cutter from StewMac. This tool is essentially a razer blade fixed in a handle with a side guide--but it has virtually zero surface area, unlike a router base, so when guided along the edge it makes a score line of perfect depth. I used this to clean up and widen my routed channels, and in the end, the routed ledges turned out nearly perfectly.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIgWWNBA7M0A5dQmz3-fsaPwTHvF6X3HQ43Ul30iG3BPXHQFDLRuzNq-lsLlInHpGULzgs7hj0gl2pgpzzibVz8ioOCx3L9DUzwsqsnUQ2_-DMge9FIe7qzb5gWitj4jviiAPExwNtLo/s320/154.JPG)
Below is a photo of the maple binding and the b/w/b/ purfling strips taped in place, prior to glueing.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLBNX-h2o8tOYiEoZ2B5vTyCpo94HKEUOSc_zGqjCK7_Mss323lZJb1Fj5cwSZB1xcTbx6APgIYoe7KOVvEuceixaYRmHIkQAJmay5-Axsg8m0jhpKB15D4s8BpkwFV-Otor62p-LIDFI/s320/161.JPG)
Essentially, I fitted and trimmed them all, taped them tightly in place, and then went around a couple inches at a time and wicked CA superglue into the gaps, then pressed firmly for about 30 seconds. This method ensured a nearly gap-free installation, and was much less stressfull / hurried than trying to do it all in one pass with wood glue.
Below is a photo of the glue in place binding, before scraping flush to the guitar body.
Another up close shot of the oversized binding protruding above the body. I realized after scraping the binding flush that I had not routed by channels deep enough in both directions, an thus wound up removing much more binding material than I had wanted too from an asethtic perspective. It turned out fine, however.
I also wicked glue into the gaps along the sides:
Here's the glues and bound back, before scraping: